Surfing is Sick
“Waves are not measured in feet and inches, they are measured in increments of fear.”
Today I surfed. It was awesome. I surfed huge one.
We are going to get me a short board. It looks like this.
There is a small river with alligators in it but none in the ocean. It is a estuary. My friend was surfing and it took him in it and everyone said he’s gonna die but he didn’t.